history – Hidden New England

Hidden History – Home Of The Coast Guard (Newburyport, MA)

When people think of the Coast Guard, they often conjure up images of episodes of The Deadliest Catch or clips of the Coast Guard seizing drug smuggling ships off the coast of Florida or some other coastal city. But the origins of the Coast Guard is much closer to our New England roots and their primary role was much different than what we might expect.

As you can tell by the featured photo above, the first vessel was launched July 23, 1791. The USRC Massachusetts, which was built by William Searle, spanned 50 feet and weighed and over 70 tons (140,000 lbs).

Initially, the Coast Guard was primarily responsible for stopping smugglers and enforcing tariffs. But, that didn’t mean their job was not without its risks. The would routinely chase smugglers, pirates and engage their suspects. Now, the Coast Guard spends a lot of their time rescuing sailors and seamen in ships that are in distress. They have saved countless lives along the New England coast and beyond.

The Coast Guard’s duties continue to expand. For instance, the Coast Guard currently patrols the Middle East with the Navy. And one Coast Guard death has been reported during these patrols.

Along the boardwalk by the waterfront in Newburyport, MA, there is a memorial dedicated to the U.S. Coast Guard.

The inscription on the marker, which was dedicated August 4, 1989, states:

We the people of Newburyport, Massachusetts dedicate this plaque to the men and women of the United States Coast Guard who have courageously and faithfully served the nation for 200 years. For two centuries their labor has saved lives, buoyed our channels, insured safe operation of ports and vessels, protected our shoreline from invaders, and defended the nation in every major war. We honor the United States Coast Guard for exemplifying our highest National virtues of commitment to the common good, respect for the law and the responsible participation in fulfillment of duty

To this day, the city of Newburyport honors their veterans from all branches of the military each year on Memorial Day. But, the city’s Memorial Day ceremonies includes a special memorial to the Coast Guard. The marchers in the parade take a Memorial March to the Waterfront, where the Coast Guard monument stands, while the Newburyport High School Marching Band plays the Coastal Guard Hymn (Semper Paratus). After reaching the waterfront, the Newburyport Police Honor Guard render a rifle volley and a memorial wreath is thrown from the Coast Guard Cutter.

Hidden History – Almshouse (Hingham, MA)

Date Of Visit: March 30, 2019

Location: Bare Cove Park, 45 Bare Cove Dr, Hingham, MA

Summary: Bare Cove Park was once home to one of the first charitable groups in the colonies and states. “Town Farm” at Bare Cove was one of the many almshouses in the states.

New England has a long history of helping others. One of the ways the people of New England have reached out to help others is with the creation of Almshouses.. In Christian tradition, alms are money or services donated to support the poor and indigent.

In short, Almshouses were charitable housing units designed to help the indigent, particularly widows, the elderly and those unable to pay their rent. They were maintained by a community or charitable group. Originally, they were attached to churches and other religious groups. They were later adopted by local officials and governing bodies.

Although they have a short history in the colonies and states, they have a much longer history in Europe. In fact, Almshouses are a tradition that was brought over from England. The first recorded almshouse is said to have been built in 1132 at the Hospital of Saint Cross in Winchester, England. It is still in existence today.

The almshouse in Hingham, MA, (“Town Farm”) which once stood in the area in the photograph below was built in 1832 and it lasted just over 100 years. It was the third almshouse in the city. Although the sign doesn’t say specifically where the almshouse was, it was in this general area. Trees, a few condos just out of view behind the trees and access roads now stand where the almshouse once stood. This sign, where the defunct almshouse once stood, is located on Bare Cove Path at Bare Cove Park.

Almshouses in the colonies and states were not just a product of Hingham, MA, though. In fact, almshouses were abundant throughout the colonies and United States way before Hingham erected “Town Farm.”

The first almshouse in the United States was founded in Boston, Massachusetts in 1622. The original Almshouse was burned down in 1682. When they decided to rebuild it they chose a different location. But, these alhouses also dotted the Northeast in such places as Pennsylvania.

However, almshouses weren’t just used for altruistic purposes. In addition to providing a needed home for the poor, mentally ill and physically impaired, the homes were also used by some as a place to drop off vagrants, criminals and addicts. This made some of the almshouses unsafe. Allegations of neglect and unsanitary conditions were also rampant at some of the homes.

By the late 1800s and part of the 1900s, almshouses were largely gone. This was in part because the Social Security Act prohibited federally aided old-age assistance to residents of public institutions. This was because the creation Social Security was thought to make these types of homes unnecessary. Little did they realize how healthcare costs would sky rocket in the ensuing years. The prohibition of legally funded almshouses also paved the way for privatized elderly care homes.

Hidden History – Naumkeag (Salem, MA)

Date Of Visit: February 2, 2019

Location: Salem, MA (formerly Naumkeag)

Summary: The area now known as Salem, MA, was once known for so much more than the venue of the witch hysteria.

Although much is made of the Salem witch trials, there is much more to Salem’s history than this dark spot on the city’s past.

Long before Roger Conant settled in what is now Salem, MA, in the 1620s, the Naumkeag tribe had settled in what is now considered Essex County, comprising essentially the northeast corner of MA. Although the area originally kept the name Naumkeag, the settlers would decide to change the name. Naumkeag would eventually become known by its current name of Salem, a name derived from the Hebrew word for peace.

What is interesting is Salem is not the only area which bears the name Naumkeag. Some areas of western Massachusetts, specifically an estate in Stockbridge bears this name. If it is named after the same tribe that would be quite a distance to travel (well over 100 miles). It’s not clear if the same tribe once lived there. But, it’s more likely the name was derived from the Algonkian name for “fish” which I will touch on later in this post.

Salem keeps ties to the Naumkeag name with some businesses bearing the name and this building on Essex St that some people may never have noticed also bears the name of the area. Most prominently, the building houses the liquor store Pamplemousse (185 Essex St) in addition to other shops.

The name is not listed prominently. So it could be easy to miss. But, if you look up you can’t miss it.

The name Naumkeag is most likely derived from the Algonkian root “Namas” meaning “fish.” As the waterways of Salem were once plentiful with fish and fish was such a major food source this is a logical conclusion. In fact, after a quick search of restaurants in Salem it is evident it still relies on fish and other seafood for its economy.

The native Naumkeag was settled some 4,000 years ago as a seasonal fishing settlement. Eventually, it became part of a colonial settlement, as was the case with many former Native American settlements. Roger Conant would settle that area and a much larger area in 1629. Now, it is a mere footprint on a city which is rich in many aspects of American history. In fact, it is plausible to write more hidden histories on Salem as it has played an essential role in many historical events other than the witch trials. And it all started in a place called Naumkeag.

So, the next time you’re shopping on Essex St or photographing the Halloween revelers, take a look up and note that you’re actually at Naumkeag Block.

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Winter Island (Salem, MA)

Date Of Visit: February 2, 2019

Location: 50 Winter Island Rd, Salem, MA

Hours: Open daily sunrise to sunset

Cost: Free

Parking: There is a parking area for about 20 to 30 cars at the park as well as street parking for about 2 dozen cars on Derby St before you arrive at Winter Island Rd

Handicapped Accessible: Yes. However, some trails may be too steep

Dog Friendly: Yes

Size: 45 acres

Highlights: lighthouse, scenic views, military historical attraction, beach, easy trails, boat storage and launch areas, camping sites

Summary: Once the site of a fish drying and ship building location by the early settlers, Winter Island is now a haven for beach goers and boating enthusiasts. Winter Island has easy trails with scenic views. The most popular highlight of the park is Pickering Light which is located along the rocky shore.

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Ask anyone about Salem, MA, and you’re sure to hear about the House Of The Seven Gables, the Salem Witch Museum or one of the other historical museums, homes and shops that dot the city. But, the best part of Salem may be miles (or more precisely a mile and a half) away from the historic downtown area.

Winter Island has a rich history as a shipbuilding area (a facility is still located there for this purpose) and as a defensive point for colonial and American forces during Queen Anne’s War and the American Revolutionary War. It would continue to act in this capacity throughout the 19th century. The area is also used to dry dock boats in the off season. The area is used for people to camp in the RVs in the warmer seasons. So the land is used year round.

The lighthouse at Winter Island, Fort Pickering Light (aka Winter Island Light), was built to warn and protect sailors from the rocky coast. Built in 1871, Pickering Light stands 28 feet above sea level, It is built of iron lined with brick. There used to be a bridge that connected the lighthouse to land. I wish they had that there now! Instead I had to walk down some rocks to get some photos up close. The rocks can be slippery, especially this time of the year as it can be icy on the colder days.

There are also some military fortifications on display at the park.

From left to top left to bottom, Winter Island is a bunker installation and some markers in memory of those who were lost during war or other conflicts.

There is also a short trail that loops around park and offers some pretty views of the harbor. Like most places, the best times to visit are during sunrise or sunset (or just before each time of day). But, it is especially true here. The orange, gold and blues help to accentuate the beauty of the park. I spent quite a while at the park to ensure I could capture a few shots just before sunrise. You gotta love those “golden hours.”

Don’t let the warm colors of the sunset fool you. What looks like chunks of ice in these photos is actually ice on top of the lobster traps in the water.

There are lots of ducks, seagulls and other birds at Winter Island.

There also seems to be a lot of reconstruction at the park. This building looked like it was being gutted and perhaps renovated for future use.

A hidden gen within this hidden gem is Waikiki Beach. The first sign you’ll see after you arrive at the entrance to the park is probably going to be the sign to Waikiki Beach. While it may not compare to the beach in Hawaii that shares its name, it is a second close.

In the colder seasons you may find people skating or practicing hockey on the pond.

The beach is usually packed with sun seekers and beach lovers during the warmer months, it is also a popular place for people to go and play with your dogs during the winter months.

Rigby is a 5 year old mixed breed dog. His mom told me he had fun playing with Oliver at Waikiki Beach. I have photographed Oliver in the past. As his Instagram profile states he is a “good boy.” You can find him here on Instagram or at oliverbestdog.

Similar places I have visited:

Watch Hill (Westerly, RI)

(Hidden) Things to do in the area:

Ye Olde Pepper Companie

Salem Willows (Salem, MA)

Hidden History – Whip City (Westfield, MA)

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Date Of Visits: January 25, 2019

Locations: Westfield, MA

Summary: The first and once leading manufacturer of whips in the United States, Westfield, MA, still retains the title of “whip city.”

As a new feature to my blog I am featuring a monthly historical account of one New England city, town or area. But, my goal is to not focus on the obvious or well known historical aspects of certain areas. Nor do I necessarily want to focus on the historically famous cities and towns in New England. Rather, I am going to bring lesser known historical accounts of certain areas in New England. Every area in New England has a hidden history and I hope these posts help to bring some light to these hidden pasts.

Whip City Music, Whip City Brew, Whip City Candle Company. Why do so many places and shops in Westfield, MA have “whip city” in their name?

The short is because it is “whip city.”

Back in the horse and buggy days of the early 1900s (shortly before my birth), Westfield, MA, was the leading center of the buggy whip industry. However, as automobiles became more affordable and accessible, the whip industry declined and many of the whip businesses closed shop. Interestingly, the first car that was built in the United States (it was really a horse drawn buggy with a 4 HP, single cylinder gasoline engine) made its first run on public roads on September 21, 1893 in neighboring Springfield, MA.

The “whip city” brand still lives on. Dozens of businesses from a siding and window installing company to a travel agency share the “whip city” name. And the whip industry isn’t exactly dead. Not yet at least.

People can still have whips made for whatever your purpose at Westfield Whip. The last remaining whip company in Westfield, MA, Westfield Whip was established in 1884. Located at 360 Elm St, it is very easy to drive by the building and not notice its historical importance. It may seem like any other old building in a city of old buildings. But, it has a long history of industry and commerce in the city. In fact it is such an important piece of history that it was placed on the National List of Historic Places on October 17, 1985. The Westfield River runs along the side of the whip manufacturing building. It was shuttered when I went to visit it Friday and it is only open by appointment only.

In 1872, Henry Martin Van Duesen formed his first partnership in Southfield and moved his business to Westfield in 1880 making it the first whip manufacturer in what would later be designated “whip city.” Van Duesen began his career in the whip industry as a whip braider at the age of 11. The building which once stood as the first whip building manufacturer was changed by Duesen to a factory to the production of lawn swings in 1925. Stanley Hardware bought the factory in 1936 . Now, it functions as an apartment building located at 42 Arnold St. But it still retained the name of Van Duesen.

I did gain access to the front desk area and the friendly office worker allowed me to take a photo of the inside of the office area. Just looking at the brick interior and the structure of the room you can see how it once certainly could have been used to manufacture goods.